Gutters & Roof Drainage

Five critical benefits: (1) Foundation protection — diverts water 5–10 ft from the foundation, preventing settling; (2) Soil erosion prevention — protects landscaping; (3) Basement/crawlspace dryness — prevents water intrusion at the wall-to-foundation joint; (4) Fascia preservation — water drips on unprotected fascia rot out the board; (5) Siding protection — splash-back stains siding and accelerates paint failure.

Six we see most often: (1) Clogged downspouts — leaves + granules; (2) Improper pitch — water pools instead of flowing; (3) Loose hangers — gutters pulling away from fascia; (4) Corrosion — rust or pitting on older galvanized systems; (5) Separated seams — sectional gutters leak at joints over time; (6) Missing kickouts — critical flashing at wall terminations, often omitted in builds.

Twice a year minimum in SA — spring (after oak pollen/leaf-fall) and fall. Quarterly if you have heavy tree coverage. After any major storm event that deposits debris. Gutter guards reduce but don't eliminate cleaning frequency — they still need annual inspection.

Four factors: (1) Linear footage — typical SA home 150–200 linear feet; (2) Material — aluminum seamless most common, steel more durable, copper premium; (3) Size — 5" standard vs 6" oversized for heavy rainfall; (4) Downspouts and extensions — more downspouts = better drainage but higher cost. Typical SA install: $1,200–$3,000 seamless aluminum.

Roof drainage refers to the entire water management system from the roof surface down: slope patterns, valleys, downspouts, scuppers, drain pipes. Gutters are one part — the horizontal catchment along the eaves. Good roof drainage design includes proper roof pitch, valley capacity, gutter sizing, downspout count, and ground-level water diversion.

Progressive damage: year 1, ignored overflow rots fascia edge; year 2, backed-up water rots decking behind the drip edge; year 3, water against the foundation causes settling cracks; year 5, basement or crawl space moisture issues develop. Gutters are cheap relative to what failure costs downstream.

Biggest risks: (1) Foundation damage — most expensive, most common; (2) Fascia and soffit rot — often requires wood replacement and paint; (3) Basement/crawl moisture — leads to mold remediation needs; (4) Insect entry — wet wood invites termites and carpenter ants; (5) Ice dams (rare in SA) — moisture freeze/thaw damage.

Repair makes sense for: single section leaking, bent hangers, clogged downspout, separated joint. Replacement makes sense when: multiple sections rusted/corroded, pitch is wrong across entire run, old 4" or 5" system undersized for your roof, fascia damage requires disconnecting gutters anyway, or when replacing the roof and the gutters are 15+ years old.

Three key decisions: (1) Material — aluminum seamless (standard), steel (more durable in high-impact zones), copper (premium, 50+ year); (2) Size — 6" for larger roofs or high-rainfall areas, 5" for standard; (3) Guards — worth the upgrade for heavily-treed properties, not essential for open lots. Most important: proper installation with correct pitch.

Bi-annual cleaning (spring and fall), post-storm debris clearing, annual inspection of hangers and sealed joints, flushing downspouts with hose water annually to verify clear paths. Every 5 years: check sealed seams and re-seal as needed. Every 10 years: comprehensive inspection for corrosion, loose hangers, and fastener integrity.

Five prevention rules: (1) Don't skip cleanings — this is the #1 cause of gutter failure; (2) Keep tree branches trimmed 10+ feet off the roof; (3) Check downspouts flow after first heavy rain each season; (4) Ensure downspouts discharge water 5+ feet from foundation; (5) Install kickout flashing at wall terminations (often missed by builders).