Tile is the signature roof of the Southwest. A well-maintained clay or concrete tile roof defines the look of Spanish-style, Mediterranean, and traditional Texas homes throughout San Antonio — from the historic King William neighborhood to Terrell Hills to the newer Hill Country developments. It's also one of the more technical roofing systems to install and repair correctly.
Clay vs concrete tile
Clay tile
- • 75–100+ year lifespan
- • Color is through-body (never fades)
- • Lighter weight than concrete
- • Premium aesthetic — richer color variation
- • Higher cost
- • Traditional Mission barrel profile most common
Concrete tile
- • 50+ year lifespan
- • Surface-colored (can fade over decades)
- • Heavier than clay
- • Wider style variety — flat, interlocking, barrel
- • 30–40% lower cost than clay
- • Better performer in freeze-thaw (rare here)
Why underlayment is everything in tile
Here's a truth about tile roofing most homeowners don't learn until too late: the tile itself is rarely what fails. What fails is the underlayment below the tile. Traditional tile installs used 30-pound felt paper that dried out and cracked after 20–25 years of Texas sun filtering through tile joints. Once the underlayment fails, water gets through to the decking — and since the tile is still in good shape, the problem isn't obvious until ceilings stain.
The modern standard is peel-and-stick (self-adhered) underlayment, typically polymer-modified bitumen membranes. These last 40–50 years and fully seal around nail penetrations. If you're installing a new tile roof or replacing one, this is non-negotiable — pay for the upgraded underlayment. The install labor is identical whether the underlayment costs $100/sq or $250/sq; saving money on the underlayment costs you 15 years of roof life.
Tile-over-existing vs full replacement
If you have an existing tile roof that's leaking, the diagnostic question is: is it the tile or the underlayment? We check by lifting tiles to inspect underlayment condition. If the tile is intact but the underlayment has failed, we can often preserve the original tile — carefully removing, storing, replacing the underlayment with modern peel-and-stick, and re-laying the original tiles. This saves significantly versus purchasing all-new tile.
This "lift and re-lay" approach only works when the tiles themselves are in good shape. Heavily spalled, cracked, or aged tile may need partial or full replacement.
Structural considerations
Tile weighs 600–1,100 pounds per 100 square feet depending on type. A 2,500 sq ft roof carries 15,000–27,500 pounds of tile — substantially more than asphalt's 3,500–8,000 pounds. If your home was originally built for tile, the structure is sized for it. If you're converting from asphalt to tile, we need a structural evaluation first — sometimes older homes need additional rafter support or ridge beam reinforcement before tile can go on.
Converting tile-to-asphalt doesn't require structural work — but you may need to address tile-specific framing details (battens, nail spacing designed for heavy tile) during transition.