Metal Roofing

Four big drivers: metal type (standing seam costs 50–80% more than exposed-fastener panels), gauge (24-gauge is ~20% more than 26-gauge but lasts longer), paint system (Kynar 500 PVDF adds to cost but doubles color warranty), and roof complexity (every valley, dormer, and penetration adds flashing labor). San Antonio pricing for a 2,000 sq ft home: $12,000–$22,000 for exposed fastener, $18,000–$35,000 for standing seam, and $22,000–$40,000 for premium stone-coated steel.

2–5 days for most San Antonio homes. Standing seam takes longer than shingles because panels are custom-cut on-site to match your roof's exact lengths. Complex roofs with multiple valleys or dormers push toward the upper end. Weather can extend it — we won't install metal in lightning or high winds for safety reasons.

For homeowners staying 10+ years, almost always yes. Compare lifetime cost: asphalt at $14,000 ÷ 25 years = $560/year. Metal at $28,000 ÷ 55 years = $509/year. Metal is cheaper per year AND you factor in avoided hail-replacement cycles, insurance discounts (often 20–30% for impact-rated metal), and 15–25% summer A/C savings from reflectivity. For a 5-year homeowner it's harder to justify; for a forever home it's a clear win.

Five that matter most in San Antonio: (1) Hail resistance — 24-gauge standing seam is Class 4 rated and rarely fails even in major events; (2) Heat reflection — Kynar-painted metal reflects 70–80% of solar radiation, cooling attics 30–40°F; (3) Wind rating — 140+ mph, higher than any asphalt shingle; (4) Longevity — 50+ years versus 25 for shingles; (5) Fire resistance — Class A, unlike wood shake.

Install quality is #1. Poorly-cut panels, missed sealant at penetrations, and improper expansion/contraction clips shorten a 50-year roof to 20. After that: substrate prep (rotten decking under metal fails quickly), underlayment quality (synthetic felt doesn't survive metal's heat — we use high-temp peel-and-stick), and maintenance of exposed fasteners if that's the system. Standing seam with concealed fasteners has essentially no maintenance exposure and is the longest-lasting residential system we install.

Six common ones: (1) Using a contractor who does asphalt primarily — metal is a different skill; (2) Low-gauge metal (29 or thinner) on primary residences — they oil-can and dent; (3) Exposed-fastener systems on high-visibility residential without a plan for fastener replacement every 15–20 years; (4) Regular synthetic underlayment instead of high-temp rated; (5) Sealant-dependent penetrations instead of properly-flashed ones; (6) Installing over old shingles — always remove and inspect decking first.

Metal handles weather better than any other residential roof type. Heat: it reflects rather than absorbs, extending its own life. Hail: 24-gauge absorbs impact without cracking (may cosmetically dent in severe events). Wind: mechanically attached to the deck — rated higher than any shingle. Ice/snow: not relevant in SA. Lightning: not attracted to metal (common myth), and metal actually dissipates a strike more safely than shingles which can catch fire.

Actual issues we see: (1) Oil-canning — visible wavy distortion on flat panels, mostly cosmetic, minimized by correct clip spacing and gauge; (2) Exposed-fastener seal failure at 15–20 years — the rubber washers dry out; we replace them as maintenance; (3) Dissimilar metal corrosion when copper flashing touches galvalume — we specify compatible materials only; (4) Noise — largely a myth for properly-insulated homes, but real for open-deck pole barns.

Good candidates: your current roof is failing and you're planning to stay 10+ years; you've had repeated hail-related insurance claims; you want lower cooling costs; your home's architecture (Hill Country modern, farmhouse, ranch) suits metal aesthetically; your HOA allows it. Skip metal if: you're selling within 3 years (ROI hasn't kicked in), your HOA prohibits visible metal, or your budget doesn't stretch and a quality Class 4 asphalt would perform 80% as well for 50% of the cost.

Three decisions in order: (1) System type — standing seam for residential primary, exposed-fastener for outbuildings and commercial, stone-coated steel if HOA restricts visible metal; (2) Gauge — 24-gauge for primary homes, 26 for outbuildings; (3) Color — Kynar-painted lighter colors maximize heat reflection; dark colors look premium but absorb more heat. We walk you through each step and show you samples on your actual roof before you commit.

Build a spreadsheet with these columns: system type (standing seam vs exposed), gauge, paint system (Kynar 500 vs SMP), color warranty length, wind rating, hail rating, insurance discount eligibility, and installed price per square. Ask every contractor to provide the same spec sheet so you're comparing apples to apples. Beware of "painted aluminum" quotes without specifying gauge or paint system — that's where cost-cutting hides.

Ten questions for your contractor: (1) What gauge? (2) Paint system and color warranty length? (3) Do you install high-temp underlayment rated for metal? (4) Clip type and spacing for thermal expansion? (5) Pipe boot type and warranty? (6) How do you handle dissimilar metal contact? (7) How many standing seam projects have you completed locally? (8) Can I see two in my neighborhood? (9) What's your workmanship warranty? (10) Do you pull permits if required?

Seven-step process: (1) Tear off existing roof, inspect decking, replace bad sheets; (2) Install high-temperature peel-and-stick underlayment; (3) Install drip edge and starter trim; (4) Custom-cut standing seam panels to exact length; (5) Clip panels to deck (never nailed — metal expands/contracts with temperature); (6) Seam-lock panels with mechanical crimper; (7) Install ridge cap, trim, and penetration flashings with matched color.

Standing seam: essentially none. Inspect annually (or after major storm events), clear debris from valleys, check sealants at penetrations every 5–10 years. Exposed fastener systems: the rubber washers on screws need inspection every 3–5 years and replacement around year 15–20 — a day of labor, not a roof replacement. That's the full annual commitment — less than any other roof type.

Five prevention rules: (1) Annual inspection of seals and penetrations; (2) Keep debris out of valleys — leaves trap moisture against the paint; (3) Don't let anyone walk on it without proper soft-soled shoes — scratches compromise the paint warranty; (4) Never pressure-wash the roof — you'll strip the paint; use low-pressure rinse only if cleaning; (5) Don't mix metals — no copper anchors for satellite mounts on galvalume panels.

On standing seam: very little — the system forgives neglect better than any other roof. On exposed fastener: after ~20 years without maintenance, leaking screw heads allow water behind panels, which rots decking. That's when a simple $500 resealing becomes a $15,000 repair. Annual inspection prevents that path entirely.

Main risks: (1) Debris-retained moisture leading to premature paint failure; (2) Unsealed penetration flashings allowing water infiltration; (3) Loose standing seam crimps from debris or wind causing panel uplift; (4) Exposed fastener leaks rotting decking. None of these are catastrophic on a short horizon, but all are cheap to fix early and expensive to ignore.